Camino Eclipse Diaries, Day 5: Templars and Vineyards

By November 3, 2026Newsletter
Camino Eclipse Diaries, Day 5: Molinaseca to Cacabelos

Molinaseca to Cacabelos · 23.3 km / 14.5 miles

After the mountains, the Camino opened up. We followed the river out of Molinaseca into Ponferrada and walked beneath the walls of the Templar castle, once held by the knights who protected pilgrims on this road. Then came the Bierzo: vineyards on every side, ripening grapes, yellow arrows and stork nests, all the way to Cacabelos. A long, warm day, and a gentle one.

“Not to us, Lord, not to us, but to your name be the glory.”

Motto of the Knights Templar, from Psalm 115:1

“I am the vine; you are the branches. If you remain in me and I in you, you will bear much fruit.”

John 15:5

Walking past row after row of vines, it was easy to see what Jesus meant: a branch doesn’t strain to bear fruit, it simply stays connected. What keeps you connected to the vine, and what tends to pull you away?

Walk the whole road with us

This is Day 5 of the Camino Eclipse Diaries: sixteen days and about 257 km / 160 miles on the Camino Francés from León to Santiago. A new day comes out every Thursday and Sunday on our YouTube channel, our Facebook Page and Instagram. Missed the start? Watch Day 0: a total eclipse over León, Day 1: Listening, Day 2: There Is No Hurry, Day 3: Up into the Mountains and Day 4: The Cruz de Ferro.

Walk with us in 2027

Angela and I will host a small group from Porto to Santiago on the Camino Portugués, 4–20 April 2027, in a Holy Year. Only 10 places remain. Come to a free Zoom information evening at 7:00 pm Mountain on Wednesday 18 November, 16 December or 20 January. Read about the 2027 Camino Portugués.

Buen Camino,
James M. Gehrke, MS, DMin, and Angela Gehrke, your hosts